Manufacturing of jewellery starts with the model. There are two ways to build a model.
By Hand: Skilled jewellers either craft different elements of metal together or carve a design out of wax to create a master model.
By Computer (CAD): Computer designers use special software to create images that build the tiniest details.
MOULD MAKING AND CASTING
Once there is a model, skilled craftsmen create a mould. A mould allows you to duplicate the model as many times as you want in any metal. They then proceed to inject hot wax under pressure into the mould. Removing it after it cools down creates a casting model to jewellery making.
Later they group these waxes on a wax tree with other styles that are to be cast in the same metal and same colour. The wax tree turns into a form, and the jeweller pours the plaster into it. Then they bake it overnight, and the wax melts away. This leaves an empty cavity of the rings.
Heating metal to extreme temperature transforms it into liquid. This liquid metal is vacuumed into the plaster form with the now empty cavity of rings.
After receiving an order for a ring style, the makers gather different metal components to the specifications of the requested ring. They then pierce together those components and cut to size. They either laser or solder the metal to weld it for accommodating the proper stone and the finger size. Platinum is always welded by laser since it requires high heat.
Next, to prepare the rings for stone setting, they go through a series of polishing stages. Gemstones and diamonds are selected to the specifications of the piece, accurate to the .01mm. Clarity, colour, and cut of each gemstone or diamond are then double-checked.
Bearings are cut in the metal using special drill heads in the shape of diamonds. Each stone is set into its bearing and safely secured by the neighbouring metal. There are several methods to secures diamonds to a piece of jewellery.
POLISHING AND FINISHING
After assembling the ring and setting the stone, it is time to finish the piece.
With the help of different shaped and sized buffs and polishing brushes, we can access every part of the jewellery - from underneath to inside the gallery.
The final step of polishing is known as lapping. Lapping makes sure that the ring has a smooth and high-quality finish.
White gold requires plating since it is not pure white. For plating our jewellery, we attach electrodes and then dip them in rhodium solution. Rhodium is a pure white metal which gives the appearance of white to yellow gold.